Discover Berkhamsted & The Chilterns
Discover Berkhamsted and The Chilterns
Book a stay at The Kings Arms and explore the picturesque market town of Berkhamsted and the surrounding areas. Below is our suggested itinerary to make the most of your stay in the heart of the Chiltern Hills.
Arrival Day:
It was to Berkhamsted that Duke William of Normandy, ‘The Conqueror’, came in 1066 following his victory over King Harold at the Battle of Hastings to accept the ‘crown’ of England from the chief clergy and noblemen of London. Berkhamsted’s history is traced by its geography. The linear road, which in Saxon times was called Akeman Street, cuts through the Chiltern Hills and cuts Berkhamsted in two, following the course of the river Bulbourne. This road is an ancient Way through the beautiful rolling chalk hills, which started to form 145 million years ago in warm tropical seas. Today, we can visit the ruins of the Mott and Baily Castle which William’s half-brother, Robert of Mortain, started in 1070. In 1361, Edward the Black Prince honeymooned with his new bride in Berkhamsted Castle and in 1541, King Henry VIII granted a licence to found what is today Berkhamsted School. Explore the Heritage walk and the first stop is your hotel the Kings Arms, built during the reign of Queen Anne as the town’s premier Coaching Inn with stabling for 40 horses. It is said that the landlord’s daughter, Poly Page, struck up a ‘close relationship’ with the exiled Bourbon King of France, Louis XVIII, and the affair was reported in The Times. In 1841 the Inn went on to welcome Queen Victoria and Prince Albert for refreshments while they changed horses. Berkhamsted saw the opening of the Grand Union Canal and the Port of Berkhamsted in 1805, linking London with the Midlands, and the London to Birmingham Railway in 1837. The world renowned author Graham Greene was born around the corner from our hotel - there is a town trail devoted just to him. The stage and screen actor, Michael Hordern, and the journalist and TV presenter, Esther Rantzen were also born in Berkhamsted. Today, Berkhamsted’s High Street is packed with cafes, coffee shops, and restaurants, not to mention independent boutique shops and an Art Deco cinema. A local guide is recommended to bring the town and countryside to life with stories from the past and present.
If you have time to spare and you’d like to try the local beer, turn right from the hotel and the Mad Squirrel Taproom is 5 minutes’ walk away on the left side of the high street. Here, they showcase award winning local beer from the Mad Squirrel brewery nearby. Enjoy a pint in the garden or book in advance for a table, before dining in our restaurant at The Kings Arms.
Day Two: Natural History Museum at Tring, Tring Park or Roald Dahl Museum
Enjoy a hearty breakfast sourced from local ingredients, grab a picnic from Berkhamsted market, and head out for the day. Drive - or why not take the local bus? - and in 20 minutes you will be entering the charming Hertfordshire town of Tring. Tring Park Mansion was once owned by the Rothschild family. Part of the estate is now the Natural History Museum Tring. Built in 1889 as a 21st birthday present from Lord Rothchild to his son, Walter Rothschild, the Museum houses his collection of stuffed animals from around the world - one of the must-see items is the performing Mexican flees. Whilst he lived here, Walter trained zebras to pull a carriage and rode on a giant tortoise within Tring Park – he was quite a character of the time! The museum has a small café, restaurant and a shop, as well as many halls and galleries packed with interest. After the museum visit, and perhaps lunch in The Akeman pub on the same road, why not don your boots and stretch the legs in nearby Tring Park? There are lots of walking options here, and at the top of the park you’ll find the Ridgeway National Trail.
Alternatively, the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre in Great Missenden is 25 minutes away by car. Roald Dahl is famous as an author of renowned children’s books, like Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Matilda, but there is more to the man than this. This was his home for the last 36 years of his life, and all visits are led by an expert guide. Both children and adults alike will enjoy this visit - and don’t forget they sell chocolates in the gift shop! Book in advance to avoid disappointment. After the visit, you could grab a bite to eat at The Stamp, across the road or why not have afternoon tea at Missenden Abbey? The beautiful town of Wendover is just 10 minutes’ drive away too, and here there are many pubs, and even a shop devoted to chocolate. From Wendover, there are also many walking options including Coombe Hill and Wendover Woods.
Berkhamsted is a great stepping stone for a day in the capital too, with a frequent train service departing from Berkhamsted station taking just 30 minutes in to Euston station. The station is an easy 10 minute walk from our hotel.
This evening, after a day out-and-about, why not visit the cinema? It has been said that The Rex in Berkhamsted is the most beautiful cinema in Britain. If you want to see for yourself and attend a showing, you’ll need to online book well in advance. Turning right out of the hotel and walking for 5 minutes will bring you to this art deco style cinema. The entrance is round the side.
Day Three: Ashridge or Champneys
Ashridge Estate has been managed by the National Trust since 1926, and the good people of Berkhamsted know how lucky they are to have this rejuvenating great forest sitting on their eastern doorstep. A walkers’ dream, Ashridge Estate is large, some 5000 acres, made up of woodland, chalk downlands, and ancient commons. It is home to an ancient herd of Fallow deer, as well as the more solitary Muntjac deer. There is plenty of space for everyone, though. The estate includes the house, the monument, and Ivinghoe Beacon, which is the finish to the Ridgeway National Trail. Many walks start from Bridgewater Monument which has free parking, a café and shop, information centre, and toilets – making this a good place to start your day. The monument was erected in 1832 to honour Francis Egerton, the 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, otherwise known as the ‘Canal Duke’. From here, you can look back along Monument Drive all the way to Ashridge House. The house has changed over the years, originally a monastery, then a royal residence of King Henry VIII and, later, Elizabeth I. Since then it has been a private house and military hospital, and is now a centre for learning. There are beautiful gardens and a café to visit, and it may be possible to have a guided tour of the house. Human activity at Ivinghoe Beacon dates from the bronze age. From its high point on the grassy chalk escarpment the land juts out breaking into the Vale of Aylesbury, and commands the best views in the area. Surrounding the estate are small villages beautifully crafted from brick-and-flint, distinctly Chiltern in character and always with a local pub for a lunchtime break. A landmark near the village of Ivinghoe, the Pitstone Windmill, can be seen from Ivinghoe Beacon.
Another option is to let the health professionals take charge at the health spa that started it all, Champneys in Tring. Destressing and recharging your batteries should not be considered a guilty pleasure, or simply for the rich and famous, but a personal commitment to your wellbeing and here you can do just that! Supercharge your batteries and rejuvenate in this once Rothschild family-owned 170-acre estate and country house of Champneys Health Spa, only 10 minutes’ drive away from the hotel. Facilities include a 20m pool, sauna and steam room, gym, cycle studio, tennis court and so much more. Decide on a treatment and let go of the day-to-day stresses you may have. Enjoy a relaxing and healthy day in beautiful surroundings, but be sure to book one of their day or half day packages in advance to avoid disappointment.
Final Day:
After a relaxing night, check-out and say goodbye to our attentive staff at the Kings Arms after a good à la carte breakfast.
If you have time before leaving, then why not consider a final walk up to Berkhamsted Common? Only a mile’s walk from the castle, you will come to what is locally known as Kitchener’s Fields. During the First World War, the fields of Berkhamsted played host to General Kitchener’s preparation of the British officers. The Inns of Court Regiment, or the ‘Devil’s Own’ as they became known, did their training there in preparation to lead men into battle. Eight miles of training trenches were dug and, in 2013, excavations took place to expose some of the trenches and an information board was put in place.